Manuscript/Parabaik  

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Object-Manuscript/Parabaik
Date-ca. 1880
Techniques-Covers of red thitsi lacquer, enclosing leaves of paper made from the bark of the paper tree (Broussonetia papyrifera)
Current Location- Victoria & Albert Museum
Place-Mandalay (City), Burma
Dimensions
Length 40.6 cm
Width 17.7 cm
V
Museum number-IM.320-1924

Sumptuary laws were strictly observed at the Court of the Konbaung Kings--the last dynasty to rule in Burma (1752-1885). Court manuals documented and prescribed the appropriate dress and ornament for different ranks of officials to wear for particular ceremonies. The very fine 37 page parabaik, or folding manuscript, from which these three images were taken was formerly in the Royal Library of King Thibaw (r.1878-1885). It illustrates and describes the costumes and paraphernalia allowed to court by provincial officials and their wives for a royal celebration at the King's Palace at Mandalay in 1880.

Shown here is the lavishly ornamented dress, assembled in layers, worn by the wife of a minister which includes her ornate black velvet sibon (a headdress to cover hair and top-knot) decorated with beetle wings and gold lace, along with her gold, long-stemmed ear tubes and jewelled bracelets. Also shown are pages illustrating the civil and military court dress awarded to the king's Lord Chamberlain, as well as that prescribed for a provincial governor.

1826 (painted)  

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Object-Painting
Date-1826 (painted)
Techniques-Watercolour on paper

Place-Burma
Dimensions
Height 11.5 cm
Width 9 cm
Current Location- Victoria & Albert Museum
Museum number-IS.58-1964

The pictures made by Indian artists for the British in India are called Company paintings. An artist from Calcutta, who accompanied the British Commissioners to Malun, Burma, in 1825-1826, probably painted this one. They had gone there for a conference with the king and representatives of the Burmese government. War with Burma broke out in 1824 and dragged on until February 1826. This was when the Treaty of Yandaboo began the transfer of Burmese territories, which continued until 1886. The Governor-General, Lord Amherst, and the Burmese Kinwun Mingi (Prime Minister) attended the conference of Malun, which paved the way for this treaty.

Minister's military court costume  

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Object-Minister's military court costume
Date-ca. 1878-1885
Techniques-Velvet and silk, with gold brocade, gold-thread embroidery and silver-gilt sequins

Place-Mandalay (City), Burma
Dimensions
(Minister's military court robe) Length 123 cm (shoulder to hem)
(Minister's military court robe) Width 36 cm (across shoulders)
(Minister's military court robe) Length 55 cm (sleeves)
(Jacket) Length 65 cm (shoulder to hem)
(Jacket) Width 43 cm (across shoulders)
(Collar (neckwear)) Circumference 45 cm (approx.)
Current Location- Victoria & Albert Museum
Museum number-IS.256 to B-1960

This ceremonial military costume of gold encrusted green and plum velvet was specially styled for a minister who served King Thibaw (r.1878-1885), the last king of the Konbaung Dynasty, at the Court of Mandalay. Consisting of a long fitted robe, separate sleeveless jacket and spectacular "cloud collar". The quality of the velvet, its colour and degree of gold decoration defined the minister's rank, which he had been awarded by the King.

Minister's military court costume, Mandalay  

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Object-Minister's military court costume
Date-3rd quarter 19th century

Techniques- (Minister's military court robe) Benares braid or locally made yet-pya, spiral cords, sequins and hollow European beads moulded with gilt sequins on imported velvet; lining of imported silk or silk-cotton

(Collar (neckwear)) Velvet, embroidered with silver-gilt cord, sequins and narrow strips of crinkled gold
(Chest panel) Velvet, embroidered with silver-gilt cord, sequins and narrow strips of crinkled gold
(Shirt) Fine cotton muslin
(Hat) Velvet, with sequined embroidery
(Sword) Forged steel, with a carved ivory handle mounted with repousséd silver
(Sword sheath) Wood and copper wire, partly mounted with silver

Place- Mandalay (City), Burma

Dimensions
(Minister's military court robe) Length 128 cm
(Minister's military court robe) Width 45 cm (across chest)
(Collar (neckwear)) Circumference 176 cm (maximum)
(Chest panel) Height 21 cm
(Chest panel) Width 21.5 cm
(Shirt) Length 66 cm (shoulder to hem)
(Shirt) Width 39 cm (across shoulders)
(Shirt) Length 55 cm (sleeve)
(Hat) Height 12 cm
(Hat) Circumference 56 cm (approx.)
(Sword) Length 80 cm
(Sword) Length 22.5 cm (handle)
(Sword sheath) Length 59.5 cm

Current Location- Victoria&Albert Museum
Museum number- IM.44 to E, G, H-1912

This ceremonial military costume of gold encrusted green and plum coloured velvet, was specially created for a secretary of state, or Atwinwun, who served both King Mindon (r.1852-1878) and King Thibaw (r.1878-1885) at the Court of Mandalay.

Consisting of a long robe fitted with scalloped and winged breast and back plates and spectacular "cloud collar" under which was worn a wrap skirt called a pah-soe. The ensemble was completed with a hat fashioned like a headband fitted with ear and neck pieces. Worn on state occasions, the colour of this costume, as well as the degree of ornamentation, would have immediately indicated the minister's rank.

Minister's court costume  

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Object- Minister's court costume

Date-3rd quarter 19th century

Techniques- (Minister's court robe) Imported velvet, silk and yet-pya (locally made braid)
(Skirt cloth) Hand-woven cotton, embroidered or with a supplementary weft weave in floss silk
(Shirt) Fine cotton muslin
(Head band) Fine cotton muslin
(Hat) Velvet, with applied gilt foil ornaments


Place- Mandalay (City), Burma

Dimensions
(Minister's court robe) Length 112 cm

(shoulder to hem)
(Minister's court robe) Length 50 cm

(sleeve)
(Minister's court robe) Width 51 cm

(across shoulders)
(Skirt cloth) Length 239 cm
(Skirt cloth) Width 44 cm
(Shirt) Length 109 cm (shoulder to hem)

(Shirt) Width 46 cm
(Shirt) Length 87 cm (sleeves)

(Head band) Length 70 cm (approx.)
(Hat) Diameter 16.5 cm (rim)
(Hat) Height 26.5 cm

Current Location- Victoria & Albert Museum
Museum number- IM.43 to D-1912

These garments, which belonged to the Kin-Wun-Mingyi or chief minister, who served both King Mindon (r.1852-1878) and King Thibaw (r.1878-1885) at the Court of Mandalay. The state robe is of crimson velvet, heavily decorated with gold, under which he wore a red wrap skirt called a pah-soe, embroidered with yellow floss silk and a high hat with applied gilt-foil ornaments. The degree of ornamentation would have immediately indicated the minister's rank. On less formal occasions the pah-soe would have been worn with the long white muslin jacket called a ein-gyi and matching headband or gaung-baung.